Pompeii

Last Sunday, we woke up (after some grumbling and hmffing) at about 4am , headed to Termini, and within 5 minutes bought train tickets, grabbed a cappuccino (in a to-go cup, first time ever) and ran to the train to take us to Napoli. We arrived in Napoli to the familiar garbage lined streets and shady street vendors we discovered on our first visit. After killing about a half hour, "shopping" around, browsing the knock-off handbags and sunglasses, we boarded the local metro which took us to this amazing little city called Pompeii. Apart from the super-high, tourist-focused prices (one guy tried to sell me a pack of AA batteries for 19 euro!), this city is truly original and unlike anything I have seen before. Pompeii, which was built around the 8th-9th century BC, sits right below one of the two big volcanoes in Italy, Vesuvio. In the year 79AD Vesuvio erupted, engulfing the entire city in molten lava ash, and killing everyone and everything in its path. In the year 1748 the city was discovered under this type of hardened cast, completely preserved, revealing interesting information about Roman life during this time. The dirt roads were lined with small homes from this period, some big, some small, the walls of many covered in colorful “frescos”. We even found a brothel from that time called the Lupenare, which was a house with different rooms containing hard rock beds, and frescos painted on the walls illustrating the different services offered (they were very inventive at the time, it turns out). We saw the oldest standing amphitheater in the world (80 BC)! Apparently, this was also the same place where Pink Floyd played a concert in the 70s. This was more impressive for Sean, since this Pink Floyd live at Pompeii was a very important video he used to watch in his college days. After walking around the amphitheater, taking about a hundred photos, Sean, his brother Ethan and I stood around just taking in the amazing history of the whole environment, when I suddenly felt something crawling around inside my jeans. Before I realized what was going on, I was stung by a bee on the back of my thigh. The pain grew more intense by the second and I couldn’t help but scream. I didn’t know what to do, since we were standing in the middle of an open field, I was wearing jeans and all I wanted to do was take my pants off. As tears streamed down my face, Sean (quite the hero) pulled me over the fence of this secluded area under the stands of the theater. He pulled out a tiny stinger and the back of my leg flared puffy and pink. These 2 French guys walked by asking Sean’s brother how they could get to the area where we were. Ethan informed them there was nothing back there, but I was having a minor emergency and they just looked at him skeptically as if Ethan were guarding this special unknown part of Pompeii and Sean and I were the only ones selected to see it. They lingered for a while, so we climbed back over the fence, so as not to attract more attention to me standing under the bleachers with my pants down. It was pretty traumatic at the time, and now kind of funny. Another very interesting, sad part of Pompeii was that there were actual molds of people’s bodies preserved in the form they were in when they were dying - for example, covering their faces or lying with their arms over their heads. There was even a mold of a little child. There were ancient snack bars, and a religious forum with typical Roman columns. It was such a surreal experience - to be able to not only learn about this sad story, but to walk where these real events happened an unbelievable, uncomprehensible amount of time ago. Equally impressive is the fact that this city was so well-preserved after so long. After spending a good 4 hours walking around, absorbing all of this, it was time to go. We stopped for a slice of pizza Napoletana, gelato and a café macchiatto for a pick me up and headed out to Sorrento....

"My kids"

It has been interesting being a teacher over the last 9 months. I have had many good days, and many bad days, and at the end of the day, I still love all my kids...even i mostri (the monsters). Classes are slowly coming to an end, which I have been looking forward to for a few months now, and now feel a little sad about it. I can't bare to tell them or their parents that I may not be their teacher next year, when asked. I said goodbye to little Leo last weekend - my red-headed, freckled 5-year-old who scarily repeats everything I say, and has mastered "sit down please". I nicknamed him my pappagallo (parrot) and I will remember his little laugh every time I called him that. I also won't forget my 3 little 7-year olds girls who know every word to the High School Musical 2 soundtrack, but have no idea what they are singing. They eat way too much chocolate that I am assuming their parents give them, and are always wound up, but their excitement makes for a fun English lesson. They always show me their little dances they learned in school, and seeing their progress has been rewarding also. One girl's mom even paid me a complement. I teach several classes at an all-boys Aero academy. Teaching classes of up to 20 teenage boys was not easy for obvious reasons. But generally, I found myself laughing a lot during these lessons as they told me their stories of partying, break-ups, or first dates. They were genuinely disappointed when I told them it was my last day with them, and they said they hope I will be their teacher again next year. I really couldn't believe it. My other group of 13-year olds said they were sad it was our last day because my class is divertente (fun)...that feels good to know too. There are so many more students that I taught, and hope I have helped. Teaching hasn't always been roses...there were times I wanted to scream...there were times I did scream! But overall, I really did enjoy this experience, and am truly surprised how much I have learned from them all as well.

Beach Soccer

Last weekend, we didn't go to the beach...the beach came to us - right here in the city center! Rome hosted the 2009 European Beach soccer Tournament right here in our very own Circo Massimo. I had never even heard of such a sport, but when we saw a stadium, being built around a fake beach in the middle of the city, we were intrigued enough to go sit in the blaring hot sun and see what it was all about. The crowd was full of men without shirts and a (a few) women dressed as if really at the beach - all with beers and Italian icys in hand. Fans from all over Europe came to support their team, which made for some crowd competition as well. The Italians were extra enthusiastic when the Italia team played. One guy shouted "O Dio!" every 5 minutes as if his life were on the line. Their excitement was contagious, and we enjoyed getting involved in the games. Personally, I thought it was more interesting than regular soccer. I liked that it was such a small space to play and that meant a lot more action - more goals and the ball going back and forth from one team to the other a lot, I liked the sand part of it too (this is my sad attempt at a soccer blog without Sean's help). My favorite part was when one of the players got a yellow card for "faking". This apparently is an actual rule, that if you are caught faking being injured the ref calls you on it and you get a penalty. I mean, isn't that a little humiliating? Grown men, faking being hurt and being called out, and then having to say, "well, yeah you're right, I was only faking" and just continue the game? And what do his teammates think? I don't know, maybe I am missing something, but I thought it was hilarious and wanted to shout, "get up ya big baby!" Overall, beach soccer was a fun experience, and more importantly a fantastic opportunity for me to work on my tan.

Ah Roma

Roma is now the Roma that I originally fell in love with. The sun blares hot during the day, and the nights are warm with the sweet smell of Jasmine filling the air. We have been out and about every night lately, slowing walking the cobble stone streets, laughing with the crowds at the street performers, and even indulging in a pasta dinner out near the Pantheon. Of course gelato is again a regular in my days as well. Accordion music fills the streets and only in Roma will a strolling violinist play while passing our front door. Last night, we met up with a bunch of friends from work. We all sat on our friend’s terrace, basking in the warm evening, drinking some Tuscan wine, laughing and talking about which direction our lives will be headed over the next few months. Around midnight, we all got the idea to go to a real discotecca which none of us have been to yet since living here. We went to a place new to us all called Testaccio, which was a street with a long row of loud, crowded discos, pumping with techno music and Italians on the prowl, which slightly reminded us of the clubs of Cabo or something we have seen before in Mexico. We had a great time dancing the night away, and before we knew it, it was 4am. Our much younger friends were getting crazy on the dance floor with slews of Italian men around them and Sean and I decided to call it a night. We had a really fun time, and I woke up this morning, craving greasy American or Mexican food. With Italian being our only option we are getting ready to head out into the heat and get some gelato. Maybe I will try a new flavor today...

La spiaggia

Oh how I long for the days of walking out my front door on Oak St., in Laguna Beach to find the beautiful, glittering, hot beach right at my feet. Those days are long gone. The heat was so intense last weekend, we, along with everyone else living in Rome, decided to head to the beach, which was a much different experience. We woke up around noon, grabbed a quick cappuccino, picked up a bunch of fruit, bread and other goodies from the market and were on our way. The journey there was rather painless, we caught the bus, the train, and then another bus, standing the whole time since all the seats were taken, and about an hour later we arrived. The beach was packed with people - adorable, happy children frolicking with their towels wrapped around their necks like capes, and hot Italians wearing skimpy bikinis and tight, bright colored speedos sunbathing and tanning their olive skin. The snack bar was lively and full of people, having a gelato, café or a cold drink, or a big plate of pasta. I had to note that in California you would never find beach goers having a big plate of pasta in the middle of the day - too many carbs, and a bit too heavy of a meal for a day when wearing a swimsuit is required. For Italians, a day doesn’t go by without a plate of pasta. We laid out in the sun for hours, soaking up all the rays possible so our skin turned a little red, a little tan and tight and my hair turned tangled and salty as the day progressed. Sean played with the soccer ball and jumped in the ocean. As the sun began to set, we decided to call it a day and head back. The only problem was that every time the bus passed, it was so full, no other passengers would fit About 5 buses passed us that were too full for us to get on. I was getting a little worried we weren’t going to ever get home. So, we decided to walk a few stops back the opposite direction, so we could try to get on before everyone else. The further back we walked, the bigger the crowds were waiting for the bus. It was impossible, so we decided to just head to the beach and get some gelato. We were at a different part of the beach since we walked away from our original stop. We quickly and inevitably realized that we were at a very well-known gay beach. The bar was hoping with people and loud techno music. We got our ice cream at the bar and sat on the beach ready to kill some time as the sun began to set and a cool breeze glided over the sand and people, trying not to stand out too much as the only hetero couple there. We decided to try the buses again after a while, managed to hop onto one, and were packed in like sardines. I have never felt so close to strangers before...it wasn’t a very pleasant experience, everyone was stinky from the beach, and sandy and these obnoxious teens insisted on screaming the whole 5 mile journey to the train station. On the train home we accidentally got in the same cabin as the screaming teens, which made for an equally unpleasant experience. We got home and were worn out. It felt good to get to the coast, but in comparison to the easy access we had in Laguna, I actually missed it a little.

La notte de musei

Last weekend, Saturday night, every museum was opened for free access to the public and remained open until 2am. We left the house around 11pm, and walked to the famous museum, Musei Capitolini. The line was huge, and since it was so late the security guards cut off the line saying only a certain number of people were allowed in. While some dramatic Italians argued with the security guards, we saw their distraction as an opportunity to slide into the line of people still allowed in. We were literally the last people who were able to enter. I would normally think this was bad karma, but I can’t tell you how many times some old Maria has cut in front of me at the grocery store with a full cart, or some Italian business man has cut in front of me at the bar saying “Scusa eh?!” So, the museum was amazing. We saw the original “Lupa” statue, which describes the mythological story of how Rome was created. Romans are extremely proud of this statue, and story. Sean has formed an obsession with this (ugly) statue, and has even considered getting a tattoo of it, so seeing it in person was big deal. The story is of the twins, Romolo and Remo, who were ordered to be thrown into the river, but were rescued by a “she-wolf” (la lupa) who cared for them and fed them so they became strong enough to start building Rome. Romolo killed his brother after he insulted him and that became the birthday of Rome. Romolo is considered to be the first king of Rome. We also saw a few paintings by the famous Caravaggio and stayed in the museum until closing time at 2am.

Londra!